You’ve just left the Coliseum and you’re now on the Spanish Steps watching motorcycles and Vespas zoom down narrow side streets. Locals gesture so intently that for a second you wonder if sign language is the lingua franca. A street vendor offers you a bacio gelato and, although you’ve heard the heat is unpleasant, you’re actually quite comfortable. Why? Because you were smarter than the typical tourist and booked one of American Airlines’ fall or winter flights. All roads lead to Rome but only one offers you 28 affordable seats in business class and 167 in coach, American Airlines’ transatlantic route on the Boeing 767-300. Rome wasn’t built in a day, but now with constant nonstop flights from JFK International to Fiumicino through Nov. 10, you can certainly get there in one!
And what’s there to do in the cradle of civilization? Plenty. But as Italy’s most visited city, Rome, even off-season Rome, has many sights best replaced with underappreciated gems. Or at least approached with creativity. Here’s our short guide of musts:
Rome.
The Pantheon. An obvious choice, but the pagan temple puts you within walking distance of San Luigi dei Francesi, Santa Maria, San Ignazio and Gesù, four churches that provide an abridged version of the Vatican’s grandeur without its line. You’ll also be right next to the rarely visited Galleria Doria Pamphilj, which allows you to see Caravaggios and Titians the aristocratic Roman way: in a palace, away from the plebs.
Cappuccin Crypt and Catacombs of Priscillia. Do you see artfully arranged bones when you picture catacombs? Turns out that’s more of a crypt thing; Cappuccin is the best. And while San Sebastiano and San Callisto get all the attention, the Catacombs of Priscillia are just as extensive and far more accessible. Their dead aren’t quite as famous but who cares? Bones are bones.
Testaccio. Located in the typically overlooked south, this neighborhood has hands down the city’s best food market. And a pyramid. When Rome sacked Egypt, it stole everything in sight, including its sense of style. A wealthy general decided to model his tomb on those he pillaged in Nubia, but at least he had the propriety to build it the Egyptian way. He used slaves. Be sure to check out the area’s inimitable Montemartini Museum, which displays 400 ancient statues in a 1932 electric plant.
Campo de’Fior. Not exactly an undiscovered secret, this city square remains the best place to get a drink. Looking for something authentic? Watch where underage Americans are going and head in the opposite direction. You’re sure to hit one of the area’s many locals-only wine bars. La Vinera is a good one. And if you want a trashy expat place? Anywhere with an English name should do. Sloppy Sam’s and Drunken Ship get points for cheap shots of absinthe.
Once you get a taste of what Rome has to offer, you’ll want to return. The American Airlines return flights depart from Rome at 12:55 p.m., arriving at JFK at 4:45 p.m. Then you’ll start planning your next Italian trip with American Airlines.
